This week, we continue with our four-island trip to French Polynesia and take a 30-minute flight to Raiatea before transferring by boat to a secluded island called Taha’a! It’s as close to Fantasy Island as you can get with five-star, luxury overwater bungalows and practically no one else around.
HOTEL TO AIRPORT From the Moorea Pearl Beach Resort, Natalie and I took a cab the Temae Airport. The transfer was part of our all inclusive package and it was operated by a small Moorea tour bus. They showed up on time as did the other passengers but a high maintenance Italian couple , with five monster-sized suitcases and oversized painting, were 15 minutes late, holding us all up. The bus was hot since the doors were open and everyone (including myself) was perturbed that we didn’t just leave their unapologetic a*ses behind. But the driver must have known our flight was delayed half an hour and just kept his cool (it must be instilled at birth!)
MOOREA AIRPORT The Airport at Moorea The Moorea airport has high ceilings, not much air conditioning, a few shops and a bar where they sell bottles of water for just 150 CFP ($1.60USD). Check-in felt like the old days of travel. There was just one agent. He ticked names off of a handwritten list, weighed the bags on an antique scale and there were no security questions or checkpoints. I actually loved the fact there was no security because it’s such a hassle and is it really going to deter anyone? Even in the U.S., it’s pretty much a joke and any terrorist could get around it. Heck, even I can get around it (and have). The one thing I didn’t like about Air Tahiti is that they don’t tell you what’s going on. There was no announcement that the flight was delayed.
The Plane to Raiatea We flew an ATR 72 plane to Raiatea. Air Tahiti doesn’t assign seats so when we boarded (from the back), I asked the flight attendant which side of the plane offered the best view. She said the left. Keep in mind, overhead luggage space is limited so make sure to check your baggage. Don’t forget to take all your valuables out. The flight is a pleasant 30 minutes. The pretty flight attendants in their colorful uniforms went up and down the aisle serving pineapple punch. The rude, newly married Italian couple were sitting three rows behind us and they were still fighting. I forgot to mention that they argued the whole time on the bus and they weren’t shy about it. On the flight, the woman was bawling so loud that the flight attendant went over to her and asked if she wanted to see the cockpit – while we were in the air. She shook her head ‘no’ so when the flight attendant made her way up to me, I asked if I started crying, would I be able to visit the cockpit? She smiled and said she’d check with the pilot but she didn’t come out again until landing. How did I know that was going to happen?
LE TAHA’A PRIVATE ISLAND & SPA Surprisingly, for such a nice resort, they didn’t offer a cold towel or anything to drink on the boat. However, the moment we arrived, there was a welcome delegation with cool fragrant towels, cold tropical drinks the color of the lagoon and flower leis. Le Taha’a Private Island & Spa opened in July 2002 and was designed to be the most exclusive resort in French Polynesia. The hotel has won numerous awards including making Conde Nast’s Gold List. It’s safe to say that they’ve accomplished their goal because the 60-room (48 overwater bungalows, 10 beach suites and two super beach suites) resort makes you feel like you are out in the middle of the South Pacific all by yourself. There’s no boat traffic like in Bora Bora and the bungalows are reasonably spread out. The resort is isolated and it’s not actually on the island of Taha’a. It’s located on a motu (a small islet) on a coral reef on the lagoon side of the island of Taha’a with Bora Bora in the background. The resort is owned by the Pearl Hotel group but run by the swanky Relais Chataeux consortium.
OVERWATER BUNGALOWS Natalie and I were in one of the overwater bungalows. These things are so nice that they made the ones at their sister property (the Moorea Pearl Resort) look like Motel 6. Okay, that’s an exaggeration but you get the point. The big differences were the space, the seclusion and the authentic Polynesian style. They are more than a hundred square meters (328 feet) in size. They all have a king size bed, a ship shaped desk and tub, a small flat screen TV with satellite, A/C, phone, high ceilings with a fan, plenty of closet space (one has snorkel gear), a luxurious bathroom that includes a separate stone shower and private toilet. There are also some really nice touches. For example, at the foot of the bed, a glass bottom table can be lifted up to feed or simply stare at the fish below in amazement. There’s nothing like seeing eagle rays swim underneath in the thigh deep light green crystal water. There’s also a similar hatch next to the tub so you’re never far away from the action!
DINING The hotel’s public areas are manicured perfectly and they have 150 staff for 120 guests. That’s an unreal ratio. Only a few staff members (managers) are lucky enough to live on the island. The others all commute from Taha’a, which is an eight-minute boat ride away. The shuttle is continuously running back and forth (except in the middle of the night) and guests are welcome to go for the ride. The resort has three restaurants and two bars. With the exception of the pool bar and restaurant, they are built up in the trees that provide an exquisite view of the lagoon and Taha’a Island. Vanille is the main restaurant and Ohiri is for fine dining (you should wear pants and a button down shirt). The food is top-notch at both places and the fresh squeezed pineapple juice is amazing. Every Tuesday night, there’s an elaborate Polynesian BBQ and show put on by the resort staff, which is quite entertaining. Also, in the main building but on the lower level next to the lobby, is the business center with wireless Internet (1500 CFP = $16USD ) for 24 hours, a shop and the concierge.
ACTIVITIES If you get bored, there are lots of free activities at the resort, which include use of the gym, kayaks, outrigger canoes, snorkeling equipment, tennis and wind surfing. There are also jet skis available for rent and a slew of excursions that can be arranged: shark feeding, day or sunset cruise, a jeep safari on the main island. Natalie and I booked a jeep safari (more below) but the coolest free thing we did was grabbing some snorkel gear and a kayak and paddling out in the shallow waters to a private motu, then wading through the water until we reached a coral garden. It was so cool. The only thing that could have made it better is if the hotel created a program (or assigned a worker) to pick up the garbage that the locals leave behind from picnics and bonfires. Don’t forget to pack water shoes since the ground, at parts, is a bit sharp.
TOUR OF TAHA’A When we got off the shuttle boat at Tapu’amu wharf on Taha’a, a few local tour guides were waiting. Two couples had arranged for a tour through the hotel while we had made our arrangements privately (it’s cheaper). The hotel concierge was sure to tell us that they don’t recommend booking anything on your own. I thought it was just so they made a commission. However, they might have had a point because it didn’t meet their standards. Later in the day, the couples who had taken a hotel-arranged tour told us they absolutely loved it but ours was just okay. Our driver from Vaipoe Tours (tel: 79 26 01) was very nice and knowledgeable. He was waiting for us with his open-air Land Rover that had fitted, flower-patterned covers (which kept falling off) over the long bench seats. He asked if we wanted to sit up front with him or in the back. We figured we’d go for the authentic tour and sit in the back even though it’s probably less safe. He showed us on a map where we were going, told us all the history and stopped at every different tree or bush and pointed out the different fruits (mangoes, papayas, avocadoes, grapefruit, breadfruit, jackfruit, coconut, soursop); flowers (hibiscus, gardenia, heliconias, flamingo, orchids); and types of trees (teak, rosewood). If nothing else, it was a very informative tour.
GROCERY STORE About 10 minutes into the tour, our guide asked us if we wanted anything from the grocery store. Of course, we wanted to buy some cold drinks and check out what their grocery stores look like. I loved the fact that they sell fresh baguettes and what’s even cooler is that our guide later pointed out what looked like long narrow mailboxes in front of most houses. But they’re not mailboxes, they’re really breadboxes (long enough to fit a baguette) so that fresh bread can be delivered each day. Too cool! He explained that most stores are owned by the Chinese and that 80% of all businesses in French Polynesia are owned by the Chinese as well. I’m not sure if that’s true. It seems an awfully high percentage considering I don’t think I saw one Chinese person the whole trip.
RUM AND COKE Speaking of rum … When it was time to go, our guide was hanging out under the cool shade with a few locals in the open-air store. He was drinking Coke in a glass, which I thought was too civilized. Then I remembered that he’d bought a bottle of rum with his bottle of Coke during our earlier stop at the grocery store. He gave the rum to the Danish guy but since his eyes looked a little red, I think he must have cracked it open while we were on the tour. I’m not 100% sure that that was the case but I would bet the house he did. It didn’t sit well that there was even a chance our guide and driver was drinking while on the job. I realize that there are barely any cars on the road (there are actually more boats than cars here), but that’s hardly the point. It’s not cool to drink and drive under any circumstances.
MANEA SPA We had some lunch delicious snack at the hotel pool, went snorkeling and then booked a Monoi Maitai massage (24,000 CFP = $257 USD for two) at the Manea Spa. It’s an elegant, professionally managed SPA that’s nestled in the shade of a coconut grove between a small lake and the lagoon . It truly is an authentic Polynesian building. The elegant spa offers up a typical menu of services for face, body and hair but many of the treatments use local fruits, flowers and, you guessed it, vanilla for a fragrant and calming effect.
Fantasy Island Le Taha’a could change its name to Fantasy Island because when it’s sunny and clear, the place is a slice of paradise. the sunsets and the views never get old. I must have taken a thousand pictures each day. One evening, Natalie and I went exploring and realized that the whole island doesn’t belong to the resort. We later learned that the back half (the ocean side) has a couple of modest weekend homes owned by locals. Getting there is about a 12-minute, eerie and quiet walk. You don’t hear anything except the sound of the giant land crabs scurrying back into their holes. We went down to see the sunset, which is stunning, but back there can be kind of creepy since there’s no one around and the path to get there is deserted. It’s so different from the resort because it’s not groomed. You almost feel like you are in an episode of Lost and you’re the star! I scared the heck out of Natalie when I suddenly “disappeared” on her but reappeared when she went booking down the path! Le Taha’a Private Island & Spa, Tel: (689) 60 84 00. Rack rates begin at 95,000 CFP ($1,012USD) but you can get much better deals by going through a tour operator or my travel agent. I use Jean-Louis Delezenne from FlyTahiti.com. He’s basically Mr. Tahiti. He’s a French guy who lives in L.A. but has a house in Moorea and knows and loves the islands so much it’s contagious. Jean-Louis’ email is meherio@yahoo.com.
More Exotic Tahiti Destinations
- John Discala
